The car starts and runs but unusual smoke observed, this wasn’t there before, sort of white cloudy and captured some live data at the top of this write up.Charging On-board electrical system battery (G1) P2010- The braking signal sent from the traction system via the CAN bus is implausible P2000- The braking torque value sent from traction system via CAN bus is implausibile My Foxwell diagnostic tool had found now the following codes that won’t erase:Ģ242-1 No or incorrect CAN message from control unit A7/3(Traction system hydraulic unit) Plausabilityĩ30-E Syncronization with DTC memory cannot be ensuredĩ040- Component n1/01 kO (FAN relay module) is defective or not installedĩ005- Zero possition adjustment has not been yet carried out or is not possible However still getting the red SBC message but not the red battery one plus the ESP faulty message in dash. In the mean time with limited time on my hands managed to change the front sam (few components blown) rear sam (components blown) then the front battery, and the big surprise was a 275 Amps fuse blown on the wire between the starter and alternator hence it wasn’t charging. Hi again, I am sorry I’ve been away for all this time, but I am back and trying to get to the bottom of this problem These days I always have a voltage tester plugged into the front cigarette lighter socket just to keep my eye on the voltage. Apart from a local breaker, SAM units are often on Ebay. Once you have got to this stage then you can work back and cure any other blown fuses or non working items. Try another front SAM unit, you really need to get the charging rate up to nearer 14 volts. So, check out the batteries, you need 2 good ones to begin with. If you are sure the replacement alternator is a good one then the SAM might be causing a low charging rate. You should really have a bit more in that front battery also.ĭue to the complexity of the electrics on the car, I would be thinking of swapping the front SAM for another one known to be good in case you have fried any circuits inside or blown any diodes. You should be seeing 13volts plus with a DVM. What is the voltage at the rear battery, without any engine running. You say only 10.8 volts with the engine running, how have you measured this? Perhaps with a DVM and the prods on each side of the battery?With engine running you should be seeing about 13.8 volts. Welcome to the forum, seems you have some complex electrical issues going on, and the E320 is just a very power hungry vehicle. I am lost at the moment and keep trying in error so got to rear BCM which I want to change next and brake light switch under dash?I will also put the diagnostic tool again today and come back with details Just to mention that I haven’t started the engine when I hooked up the battery with reversed polarity. Tail brake lights pulsating and turning signal left stays on. Engine occasionally interrupting and a bit smokey at times smells like enriched or not properly mixed. ![]() High current relay under wiper also replaced.Checked fuses in boot and all look good, continuity present also.The sbc light also on however the small battery showing 12.4v,the round black fuse showing around 5ohms, the rear battery showing 10.8v with engine running and reved to 1500 rpm aircon not working, nor radio as it only turns on and the boot auto open too. I so far changed the alternator with OM used, fuse box under carpet driver side( I have found a burnt 150A in the previous box ) few blade fuses 5A,30A,20A. Battery alternator stop vehicle, brake defective visit workshop, display faulty, esp faulty.
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